Truffle Hunting in Provence: Our Morning at Les Pastras with the Girls
The last morning of our 9 day Provence trip was spent truffle hunting at Les Pastras in Cadenet. Two dogs sniffed out the truffles, and then Liz, the girls, and I got to dig up huge ones ourselves. Afterward, we had a truffle tasting that included the best ice cream I have ever had in my life. It was one of the best ways to end our time in Provence.
Truffle Hunting in Provence at a Glance
- Where: Les Pastras, a truffle and olive farm in Cadenet, in the Luberon
- Getting there: By car, a little under an hour from our Airbnb in Maillane
- How long: About 2 hours, including the tasting
- Cost today: About €70 per adult and €50 for ages 10 to 17
- When we went: The last morning of our trip, in June 2023
- Good for kids: Yes. Our girls loved the doggies and the tasting
- Don’t miss: The truffle ice cream at the tasting afterward
- Wear: Closed shoes you do not mind getting dusty, plus hats and sunscreen
Jump to: Our Truffle Hunt · Truffle Season · Fresh Truffles · Tips · FAQs · Final Thoughts
Our Truffle Hunt at Les Pastras
Morning: Maillane to Cadenet
We packed up our Airbnb in Maillane and drove to Les Pastras, a family farm in the Luberon that grows olives, grapes, and truffles. The drive took a little under an hour.
Les Pastras is a family farm run by Johann and Lisa Pepin, a French and American couple who left city life behind. Their farm covers about 11 organic hectares of olive trees, grapevines, fruit and nut trees, and truffle oaks, with lavender and roses growing around the old stone farmhouse.
The Hunt
Two dogs led the hunt. They ran between the oak trees with their noses to the ground, and when one of them stopped and started scratching, we knew they had found something. Then it was our turn. We knelt down and dug the truffles out of the dirt ourselves, and some of them were huge. It was amazing! Honestly, Liz and I were way more excited than the girls were. To them, it just looked like we were digging up poop, which still makes me laugh. The girls did love the day, though, mostly because of the doggies and the tasting.
After the Hunt
Afterward, we had an amazing tasting. We tried fresh shaved truffle, but the highlight was the best ice cream I have ever had in my life: truffle ice cream topped with truffle honey, truffle salt, and fresh shaved truffle. It was mind blowing, and literally one of the best things I have ever eaten.
After that, we dropped the car at Avignon TGV and said goodbye. Liz and Avalon took the train to Paris, and Kailani and I headed to Marseille to start the French Riviera part of our trip.
Can You Go Truffle Hunting in Summer?
Yes. Most people picture truffle hunting in winter, but we went in June. Provence has two main truffle seasons. Summer truffles are found from about May to September, and the famous black winter truffles are found from about November to March. Since we went in June, the ones we dug up were summer truffles.
If you are a foodie, truffles were one of our favorite things we ate in all of Provence, right up there with everything in our foodie guide to Italy.
Why Fresh Truffles in Provence Taste So Different
These were the freshest, best truffles I have ever had. We get nothing like this back home in the US, because truffles start losing their aroma the moment they come out of the ground. By the time imported truffles are flown across the ocean and make it to a restaurant, a lot of that fresh, earthy flavor is gone. Tasting truffles grown and harvested right there on the farm, instead of ones that have traveled across an ocean, is a completely different experience.
If you want to try truffle hunting in the US, there are a few truffle farms that now offer it, mostly in winter. Virginia Truffles in Rixeyville, Virginia and NewTown Truffiere in Allen County, Kentucky both run guided hunts with dogs, and Oregon is known for its wild truffles. We have not been to any of them ourselves, but they are on our list.
Tips for Truffle Hunting in Provence
- Book ahead. Farm hunts are small and fill up, especially in summer. If you are planning for a group, our guide on how to plan a girls trip walks you through it.
- Wear closed shoes. You will be kneeling and digging in the dirt. For the rest of your packing, our capsule wardrobe guide helps you pack light.
- Bring hats, sunscreen, and water on summer days.
- Plan it near the end of your trip if you want to bring truffle products home.
- Ask before booking if your kids are young. Each farm has its own age rules.
Truffle Hunting in Provence FAQs
How much does truffle hunting in Provence cost?
Today, a hunt and tasting at Les Pastras costs about €70 per adult and €50 for ages 10 to 17. Prices change, so check with the farm before you book.
Is truffle hunting good for kids?
Yes. Our girls were 8 and 9, and they loved the dogs and the tasting. Honestly, the moms were more excited about the truffles than the kids were.
How do dogs find truffles?
Dogs are trained to follow the strong smell of ripe truffles underground. When they find one, they stop and scratch at the spot so the hunter can dig it out.
Where is Cadenet?
Cadenet is a village in the Luberon, about 30 minutes north of Aix-en-Provence.
When is truffle season in Provence?
Summer truffles are found from about May to September, and black winter truffles from about November to March.
Can you go truffle hunting in the US?
Yes. A few truffle farms in places like Virginia and Kentucky offer guided hunts, mostly in winter, and Oregon is known for its wild truffles.
Final Thoughts
Truffle hunting at Les Pastras was the perfect way to end our time in Provence. Liz and I were giddy digging up truffles, the girls fell in love with the doggies, and that truffle ice cream is something I will be dreaming about for the rest of my life. If you ever get the chance to taste fresh truffles right where they grow, take it.
On the same trip, the girls also painted where Van Gogh painted and ran through the Valensole lavender fields. It is the kind of trip that shows why we love traveling together.
